Shoe.



S H UE.

(Applicgion filed Aug. 24, 1901,)

3 Sheets-Sheet l.

(No Model.)

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Patented lan. I4, |902.

M. J. MOLNEY.

SHE.'

(Application med Aug'. 24, 1901.1

3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

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SHOE.

(Application filed Aug. 24', -1901J l 3 Sheets-Sheet lu/vanto:

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

MICHAEL J. MOLONEY, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TOJAMES A. MOLONEY, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK.

SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N o. 691,284, dated January14, 1902. Application iiled August 24, 1301. Serial No.v 73,163. (Nomodel.)

To @ZZ whom it may concern.:

Be it known that I, MICHAEL J. MoLoNEY, a citizen of the United States,residing at Rochester, in the county of Monroe and State of New York,have invented new and useful Improvements in Shoes, of which the followingis a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of shoes, andpertains to the the outer sole in the ordinary-welt shoe in that whenthe shoe is ready to have the outer sole attached thereto there is asmooth outer surface for the reception of the sole anda smooth innersurface for the foot of the wearer. There is a saving in the lastingoperation, and finally a shoe is produced which is when applied tospring-heel shoes absolutely nailless.

Referring now'to the drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective View of acompleted shoe embodying my invention, the same being shownv in sectionto illustrate the relative positions of the welt, the upper, the innersole, the outer sole, and the stitches for uniting the several parts.Fig. 2 is an inverted plan view of the several parts placed upon thelast and tacked thereto ready to be stitched by means of a shoe-sewingmachine. Fig. 3 is a transverse sectional view of the insole,showing thewelt attached thereto and ready to be placed upon the last for thereception of the upper, all of which are afterward sewed together. Fig.4 is a transverse View showing the insole, the welt, and the upper intheir positions upon the last and the parts stitched together. Fig. isatop plan view of an upper, showing the Welt attached to the upper andready to be placed upon the last, together with the insole, asdistinguished from the attachment of the welt to the insole, as shown inFigs. 3 and 4, the upper being shown right side out. Fig. 6 is atransverse view of the upper turned wrong side out and after the. welthas been attached thereto.- Fig. 7 is a transverse view of the upper,the insole, and

the welt sewed together and turned right side out and ready to receivethe outer sole.

Y In the manufacture of my improved shoe the insole lis placed insideout upon the last 2 and the Welt 3 is situated between the insole andthe upper 4, as clearly illustrated in Fig. 4. The welt 3 in the methoddisclosed in Figs. 3 and 4 is attached to the insole in any suitablemanner before the upper is applied thereto for the purpose of preventingthe displacement thereof under the nal stitching operation in` unitingthe upper, the insole, and the Welt. As here shown, the preferredmeans'of uniting the welt to the insole before the upper is applied isby means of a transverse row of fine stitching 9, though other means foruniting the Welt to the sole may be used. My preferred method, however,is to sew the welt 3 to the upper 4 before applying it to the insole, asshown in Fig. 5, instead of uniting it to the insole, as in Figs. 3 and4. The Welt having been attached inside out to either the insole ortheupper by any desired means, as just described, the insole is placedinside out upon the last 2 and the upper turned inside out and tackedthereto by tacks 6, as shown in Fig. 2.

By reference to Figs. 3 and 4 it 4 will be noted that in the positionsof the parts the welt is entirely out of the way of the operator insewing the welt and the upper to the chan- \n`e'l 7 of the insole andthat the parts are in such a position as to be exceedingly convenientfor the operator, Which enables himto much quicker sew the partstogether thanis possible in the ordinary method of producing theordinary-welt shoe, for the reason that in the old method of makingwelt-shoes the upper is placed right side out and the welt extends inthe form of a lateral iange, whichis fulness and skill to properly unitethe parts. In the use of my method this carefulness is not necessary, asthe parts are in such a poin the Way of the operator and requires care-IOO sition that they are firmly held againstudisplacement and there isno laterally-extending member in the way of the operator.

After the parts have been stitched together by means of the stitches 8,which pass through the channelof the insole, the tacks having beenremoved, the projecting parts are cut offv by any suitable implementvery quickly, as`

in the position shown in Fig. 4, and the cutting operation isconveniently performed. The result is asmooth inner surface, asillustrated in Figs. 1 and 7. The last is then removed and the shoeturned right side out, which produces a wide laterally-extending weltfor the attachment of the outer sole, as shown in Fig. 7, and producesan upper with the welt and the insole attached thereto th'atfisremarkably iiexible. It willalso be noted from Fig. 7 that a smooth`outer surface for the attachment of the outer sole ispresented-and thatthere is no filling in lbetween theinner and outer sole, as in theordinary-welt shoe,`

thus producing a shoe which will wearbetter, as Well as being cheaper toproduce andmore flexible.

In the production of Welt-shoes'by the'rordinary method it is wellunderstood'by those' skilled in the art that the welt is not extendedaround the heel of the shoe and. that the lower edge of the heel of theupper isA elongated and doubled around the heel portion .andnailed tothe inner sole, which requires considerable time, as well as vproducinga shoe inferiorv to one in which the sewing, extends yaroundthe heelportion as well as the foot `and shank portions.

vBy reference to Figs. 1, 2, `and 5 it will be noted that I prefer' toextend my welt around the'heelportion aswell as the shank portion, andowing tothe relativegpositions ofthe parts whenvuniting them it is aconvenient i and the heel, (in spring-heel shoes,) as-well as the otherportions of the shoe, thus producing anailless shoe. This method will bepursued also in the use of the projecting heel in that the outer solewill be preferably sewed to the welt all around the lheel and then theheel nailed in position. This method of connecting' the outer sole isfound to be a considerable saving in time over the method used in theyordinary-welt shoe, in which the welt eX- tends only to the heelportion, and the lower edge of the upper is then doubled under-theinsole and nailed thereto, which method requires a filling in of thefoot, the shank, and the heel portions and after which the outer soleand the heel are nailed in position.

lBy reference to Fig. 4t it will be noted that my invention being usedwith an insole having a flexible edge 5 enables the welt to extenddownward between the sides of the last and the upper, thus taking uppractically no room, so that the same last which is used when the partsare sewed together in their reversed positions, as in Fig. 4, will t theshoe for lasting purposes when it has been turned-right side out andstill leave a wide projecting flange formed bythe welt, as

shown in Fig. 7, for the attachment of the outer sole by the usualsewing operation.

It is found in practice that my invention eifects an enormous saving inthe cost of the production of a welt-shoe in addition to producing asuperior-wearing shoe and a shoe exceedingly flexible. It is also foundin practice that I am enabled to produce a babys welt-shoe by means ofmy invention, something which has not been practical heretofore, thusproducing for children, babies, and women aV heavy-sole shoe practicallyas iiexible as the light-sole shoes heretofore made with theprojecting-welt effect.

I am aware that heretofore turned'shoes inV which the upper has.` beenattached to the outer sole have been produced, and am Aalso aware that amock or-v false turned-welt shoe has heretofore been produced inwhich awelt is interposed between the upper land. the outer sole and the partsthen turned for the purpose of producing an imitation-welt shoe. In thisinstance it willbe noted,how

ever, that the-welt does not perform the function of uniting the upperand'theinsole to an outer sole, but performs no function whatever,simply remaining'as an imitation.`

My invention is essentially different `from these prior turned shoes inthat -a shoe is produced in which the welt serves as a means to unitethe outer sole after the shoe is turned right-side out, which is nottrue of the prev-iousy turned shoes, thus making a new article in that Iproduce a turned-welt shoe and notrwhat isknown asa turned shoe or almock or false turned-welt shoe. It will also be noted by referenceespecially to Figs. 3l

and t that I prefer kto use my invention in connection with an insolewhich has its edges i tapered or cut away outward, as shown at 5,

whereby the insole is provided with a projectingexible flange that willbend and conform to the curve of the upper and welt when turned insideout, as in Fig. 4. This enables the same last to-be used when the upperis either wrong Vor right side out and the size of the shoe to beaccurately determined, which is not true with a turned shoe or a turnedmock-welt shoe, if the edge of the outer sole be extended anyappreciable distance.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secureby Letters Patent, is-

1. A turned-welt shoe comprising an insole, a welt and an upper bothattached to the inner face of the insole, the welt located between theinsole and the upper and having its outer edge projecting outward beyondthe edge of the insole, and an outer sole attached to the projectingedge of the welt.

2. A turned-welt shoe comprising an insole IOO IIO

having its edge tapered downwardly and outwardly, a welt and an upperseated against said tapered portion with the welt located between theinsole and the upper, the outer edge of the welt projecting and khavingits lower face substantially in a plane with the outer face of theinsole, and an'outer sole at tached to theprojecting portion of thewelt.

beyond the insole entirely therearound, and an outer sole sewed to thewelt entirely around the upper including the heel portion, thusproducing a nailless shoe.

- 5. .A turned-welt shoe adapted to have its insole, upper andweltconnected Wrong side out, the insole having fa projecting iiexible ange,the welt located between the 'upper f and the iiexible Iiange 'of theinsole and haw ing an outwardly-projecting portion when the parts areturned right side out, andan outer sole attached to saidoutwardly-projecting portion of the welt.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of twosubscribing 3 witnesses. t

v MICHAEL J. MOLONEY.

Witnessesz.

'JOHN W. MoREgY,

J AMES A. MOLONEY.

